What type of soap do I use to clean my brushes when using latex paint?
Any mild bar soap or dishwashing detergent will work.
Any mild bar soap or dishwashing detergent will work.
Clean brushes immediately after use. Do not soak brushes in solvent or water, as this can damage the bristles. Consider using one set of synthetic tools for oil-based products and another set for water-based products. It is much easier to clean the brushes if you don't switch back and forth between the two types of bases.
Closely follow the manufacturer's instructions to select the proper cleaning solvent (mineral spirits or paint thinner for paint and varnish, denatured alcohol for shellac, etc.). Pour the solvent into a container and dip the brush into the solvent. Work thinner through the brush bristles, dipping up and down in container several times. Spin the brush into a waste area to remove excess thinner and then repeat process with a clean container and clean thinner.
Warm water and mild soap suds is the best cleaning solution for water-based paints. Prepare soapy water and pour into a clean container. Dip the brush into the mixture, working the soap through the brush bristles. Follow with a clear water rinse. Repeat the process if necessary. Always use a clean container with clean soapy water and follow with a clear water rinse. For stubborn water-based paints, try mineral spirits or lacquer thinner, followed by warm soapy water and a clean water rinse.
After cleaning, remove excess solvent or water by spinning the brush or using a mechanical spinner.
Purdy® strongly recommends the use of a brush comb. This tool is very useful in cleaning through the center of the brush and removing any residue near the ferrule's edge. Paint residue left in the brush will harden and "set" the bristles, making them lose their bend recovery. Once clean, use the comb to straighten the bristles or filaments to prevent "fingering." Reshape the brush to its original shape, replace in its keeper and lay flat to dry. (After hard use, it may be necessary to steam synthetic brushes or dip natural-bristle brushes in boiling water to aid in reshaping.)
Whenever possible, store brushes by hanging them. Never store a brush on its tip, which can result in "curling."
Remove roller sleeve from frame immediately after using. Do not allow the paint to begin drying on the roller.
Clean roller covers immediately after use. Never leave sleeve soaking in water or solvent.
Closely follow manufacturer's instructions in selecting the proper cleaning solvent (mineral spirits or paint thinner for paint and varnish, denatured alcohol for shellac, etc.). Pour the solvent into a container and dip the roller cover into the solvent. Repeat this process using a clean container and fresh solvent until the roller cover is clean.
Wash with soap and warm water, and rinse until clean. Repeat the process if necessary. Always use a clean container with clean soapy water and follow with a clear water rinse. If needed, use a putty knife to help scrape off the paint. For stubborn water-based paints, try mineral spirits or lacquer thinner, followed by warm soapy water and a clean water rinse.
Dry and store your roller covers with care. String roller covers on rope or dowels to aid in drying the sleeves. Don't stand roller on its end or lay it on its nap. Dry thoroughly before storing in dust-free cabinets or boxes.
Latex paint that is dried on your brush will soften. You will need to use hot water, soap and patience. Prepare soapy water and pour into a clean container. Dip the brush into the mixture, working the soap through the brush bristles. Now, place the brush back into the hot/warm water for about 20 minutes. Remove the brush and using a stiff nylon-bristle brush, gently rub the filament following the flow of the bristles. Follow with a clear water rinse. Repeat the process if necessary.
For stubborn water-based paints, try mineral spirits or lacquer thinner, followed by warm soapy water and a clean water rinse. It may take two or three times of repeating the above steps, but the paint will eventually break apart and wash away. Be sure to dry the brush completely and then place the brush in its yellow Purdy brush keeper and store it until your next use.
The brush is not ruined. You need to follow this procedure to bring the brush back to its original finish. First, be sure the brush is completely clean and totally dry. The water from the latex paint and from washing the brush will have leeched the natural oils out of the bristles of the brush.
To bring the brush back to its original softness, use raw linseed oil, which can be found at many paint dealers. Put a dime-size drop of the linseed oil in the palm of your hand and work it into the bristles. You may need to repeat the application of linseed oil several times to completely repair the brush. Once soft, comb out the brush, place it in its yellow Purdy brush keeper, and store it until next use.
Do not use a wire brush on a paintbrush. While it will help remove the dried paint from the tips of the bristle, it also knocks off the flag (splits) at the end of the bristles. Using a brush comb to clean the paint from the inside of the brush will increase the life of the brush. To get the outside of the brush clean, try using a stiff nylon-bristle brush. This will be less destructive on the ends of the filaments.
The low temperature of the refrigerator will slow the drying process, but it will also increase the chance of paint drying up inside the brush. Also, be careful, as most paints do have an odor that release inside your refrigerator and get into your food. It's best to clean your tools after each use, as proper maintenance and cleaning will extend the life of your tool, and ensure it functions at an optimal performance level.
For latex products, a 100 percent nylon brush, or a combination of nylon and polyester, is the best choice. For oil-based products, a Chinex-bristle or ox-bristle brush will give you great results.
Both are trim brushes and used for "cutting in," which is the process of applying paint around trim, doors and other areas. A [Dale brush] (link to Dale brush product page) is thinner than a [Glide brush] (link to Glide brush detail page) and is a little easier to use, although the Glide brush holds more paint. The Dale has square corners and the Glide has round corners, which is largely a matter of personal preference. Homeowners/do-it-yourselfers with limited paint experience should probably start with the Dale brush since it is easier to use. Professionals and experienced DIYers tend to prefer the Glide brushes.
White China bristles are made from natural fibers like our hair. When the bristles get wet, the brush becomes soft and has no backbone. Synthetic filaments retain their stiffness and body with all types of finishes.
Professional painters often prefer a 100 percent nylon brush for painting interiors with latex enamels. However, nylon reacts to heat and humidity by getting softer and harder to use. Nylon processes better than any synthetic filament (tips and flags) and is twice as abrasion resistant as polyester and seven times as natural bristle.
Polyester adds stiffness retention to the brush and helps limit the reaction to heat and humidity, so they are ideal for exteriors, as well as interiors. These brushes work with all types of paints and stains and are considered all-purpose brushes.
It is worth mentioning that Purdy synthetic filament brushes perform exceedingly well in oil-based paints. This is due to the various processing and finishing steps in our manufacturing operation that soften the synthetic material and eliminate "drag" when used with oil-based paints.
Both the 100 percent nylon and nylon/poly blends allow paint to flow smoothly; thus, the choice comes down to the environment. If your climate has high heat and humidity at the time you will be painting, use the poly/nylon blend. If not, select the brush you prefer.
We are assuming the drywall has been primed and is ready for paint. Use a 9" White Dove™ roller cover in either a 1/4" or 3/8" pile height for the best results.
Professional painters will immediately be able to see and feel the difference in these rollers. The first thing they'll notice is the comfort. Purdy's new products have been designed using lightweight, ergonomic materials that reduce fatigue and fit comfortably in the hand. However, the ergonomic construction of our new products is only one of the benefits. All of our roller systems, including the standard 9" cageless frame and Jumbo Mini-Roller, have been engineered to create a smooth rolling action when carrying a full load of paint. And, the roller covers are designed to carry large volumes of paint without dripping, clumping or shedding when released on the wall surface.
It really depends on the condition and texture of the wall. Using a 3/8" nap roller cover will leave a very nice, smooth finish, but is not a production tool. If the wall has a medium to heavy texture, then you might move up to a 1/2" or even 3/4" pile height.
Before painting, all synthetic covers require some form of preconditioning. If using latex paints, the cover should be lubricated with water and spun to remove excess moisture. This will prevent the paint from attaching fibers and provide an optimal level of release. If using an oil-based paint, the cover should be lubricated in a paint-thinning solvent. Mohair covers should also be preconditioned this same way. Due to their natural oils, lambskin covers do not require any preconditioning. Remember ... preconditioning your cover will greatly improve its painting performance.
You should have no problem getting paint to hold over stain. Be sure the surfaces to paint are clean, the stain is totally dry and there are no loose chips on the surface. Prime the house with a pigmented stain sealer to prevent "flashes" or "hotspots" coming through the paint. Then, paint with a good quality paint and brush designed for the outdoors such as our XL Glide™ series.
Once the temperature drops below about 55ºF, paint becomes a little harder to work with. It is also easier to get sags in paint because of the slower dry times. Temperatures for latex and oil paints differ, as do stains and paints. Please read the label on the can of finish and follow the manufacturer's recommendations.
Score around the paper that has lifted, remove the loose paper AND paste; then, prime the area, plus a couple of inches around the remaining paper. You will need to feather the edges with spackle and then prime the spackle. You should prime with a roller to create a stipple that matches the rest of the wall and then you should be ready for paint.
It's important to never fill a tray more than one-third full. Next, be sure to load the entire surface of your roller cover with paint. The best way is to roll it slowly down the tray into the paint, then back - several times - letting the roller cover absorb the paint. A tray/bucket grid is helpful to prevent overloading.
For a perfect finish, never run the roller cover dry and always be sure to paint from a wet edge. To help reduce lap marks, paint walls from the top down, using an extension pole, and start painting the wall by rolling an "N" in a three-foot square. Then, fill in between the gaps, blending into your initial strokes as you go. Always work from the unpainted into the painted surface. When you start another area of the surface, repeat this process for the best results from your roller cover.
It's a question of technique. Longer, full brush strokes are right for long runs at the ceiling line or in the corners of the walls. It's better for consistent coverage with fewer brush marks and breaks in the cut line. In some situations, such as painting in bathrooms, on six-panel doors, closets and similar areas, a shorter brush stroke is your only option and works great. When cutting in, breathing out or holding your breathe makes it easier to maintain a straight and consistent cut line.
It's having the right tool and technique. Having the right tool for the finish and project surface is critical to the finished product. With 11 families of brushes, Purdy has the correct applicator for every finish and substrate. You'll get easier, better results by having the correct tool for the finish. The packaging of all Purdy "keepers" has all of the info needed to make a good choice for the type of paint and substrate to use them on. Brush marks are usually a result of running the brush too far per dip or from trying to put too much paint on per dip. Too much paint per dip will also cause runs and sags in the paint. It's always a good idea to determine how the paint will finish out before you actually start the project. Deep tone paints have more chance of showing a difference between the brush work and the roller. Cutting in one wall at a time and rolling as close as possible to the perpendicular wall or ceiling can help limit the picture framing.
Like any other product, the raw materials and the construction methods dictate the quality of the tool. Lower-grade steel means the blade will rust or pit more easily than a high carbon or stainless steel blade. Short tang (how long the blade is embedded in the handle) will affect how durable the tool is when used on a day-to-day basis.
Keeping the scraper blade free of nicks and abrasions is important for scraping and patching. The smoothness of the blade allows you to work faster and provides a better result. Many painters know how to use a machinist file to keep the edge free of burrs and chips.
Keeping tools clean and not leaving them to soak in solvents or water will help them last longer. Also, not leaving tools in direct sunlight, extreme heat or cold is always helpful.